South Indian filter coffee starts with a decoction — a strong, concentrated coffee extract that's brewed in a traditional metal filter. The filter has two chambers: the top holds the coffee grounds, the bottom collects the liquid as it slowly drips through.

South Indian filter coffee starts with a decoction — a strong, concentrated coffee extract that's brewed in a traditional metal filter. The filter has two chambers: the top holds the coffee grounds, the bottom collects the liquid as it slowly drips through.

The decoction

The ratio matters: 3 tablespoons of coarse-ground coffee to 1 cup of just-below-boiling water. The grind needs to be coarse — finer than espresso, coarser than French press. The water needs to be hot but not boiling — boiling water scorches the grounds and makes the decoction bitter.

The brew needs to sit for 20-30 minutes. Don't rush it. The slow drip is the point.

The pour

Traditional South Indian filter coffee is served in a davara — a small, flat-bottomed brass cup — and a tumbler. The technique is called the 'meter coffee' pour: you pour the coffee back and forth between the tumbler and davara, from a height, to aerate it and cool it to drinking temperature. The pour should be about a foot high. The coffee should foam.

We're not exaggerating: a proper filter coffee is roughly 30% coffee, 60% whole milk, and 10% sugar (or to taste), all frothed by the pour. The result is a coffee that's strong, sweet, and creamy in a way that no other coffee tradition quite matches.

At home

You can make excellent filter coffee at home with a basic South Indian filter (we sell them, but any Indian grocery store has them for $15). Use a 80/20 coffee-to-chicory blend for authenticity. Whole milk, not skim. Sugar to taste. And take the time to pour properly. The pour is half the coffee.

— Anjali